Mimi Sheraton on French Food
Mimi Sheraton, writing for the Guardian UK, asks if the death of French cuisine been greatly exaggerated:
Ever since the culinary triumphs of Ferran Adrià et al in Spain, we have been reading critics' assessments that the culinary torch has been passed to Spain. France, we are told in glittering hyperbole, doesn't even begin to stack up... Just about every rave for Adrià makes the claim, however inadvertently, that the French kitchen is still the one to beat. So might not the developments of these so-called innovative Spanish chefs be considered merely be an extension of French cuisine? Might not foam be just a reduction technique?