'The Smoke Hangs Over the Room Like a Chandelier'

Alan Richman visits Char No. 4 in Brooklyn:

The place smells like a Vermont hunting lodge, or maybe a Texas BBQ joint. Otherwise, the ambience is pretty simple: Wood floor, marble table tops, not much else. As one of my guests brilliantly observed, “The smoke is really the décor. Otherwise, the place has no décor. The smoke hangs over the room like a chandelier.”

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