The New Yorker 2008 Food Issue, ADHD Edition
James Surowiecki explains the entire global food crisis in seven easy to digest paragraphs!
Fuchsia Dunlop on Dai Jianjun’s “prelapsarian Chinese cuisine” – an awkward phrase that is hopefully not intended to conflate Our Lady of Localism Alice Waters with Our Common Mother Eve. (Print only)
Calvin Trillin on Texas Barbecue Rankings – A former rodeo clown and a woman named Tootsie make the best brisket in Texas, with notes of cookie dough and a hint of George Clooney.
Todd Oppenheimer profiles Bob Kramer, maker of custom blades – He's a former Ringling Brothers clown who melds steel into culinary weapons, chopping all manner of things in the meantime, including bolts and “a roll of bamboo six inches thick (…an old samurai training trick, meant to simulate cutting through a body).”
Tea and Wallaby is an “audio slideshow” of photojournalists’ favorite meals—pretty much what you’d expect (recently slaughtered animals, strange meat parts, hard workin’ ladies).
Burkhard Bilger weighs in on Dogfish Head beers and “the rise of extreme beer” – Garrett Oliver of Brooklyn Brewery finds “the term ‘extreme beer’ irredeemably pejorative.” Which should entice you to drink as much of it as you can find.
Jane Kramer delivers the obligatory gastro-tourism piece (profiling cookbook authors Jeff Alford and Naomi Duguid), which delightfully conflates gopher huntin’ with Moby Dick. (Print only)
Mimi Sheraton delivers the obligatory food-writing-as-memoir piece. Her aide-mémoire? Brodetto, an Adriatic fish soup. (Print only)
–special EMD contributor Paula