New York Magazine Stays on Trend, Writes About Hamburgers
New York magazine ran their "Where to Eat 2009" issue today, and we realized something. NYM and trends is like our college roommate and her alcoholic fratboy boyfriend. So ready to walk away, so tired of all the drama, wasting hours and hours complaining about how awful it is ... but there's something ineffable keeping them together. For our roommate, it was incredible sex. For Adam Platt, it's Pat LaFrieda's burger blends.
On the one hand, Platt writes a piece, "Trends We're Tired Of":
Fetishized Burger Blends
Are you weary of hearing your friends rhapsodize about the fatback-to-flap-meat ratio in their $16 burgers? So are we.
And on the other hand, in the same friggin issue, he writes a piece, "Burger Madness," where he goes on to rhapsodize about the fancy burger blends, both custom-made and famous:
[J]oin the rest of the knowledgeable burger hounds crowding the bar these days at Irving Mill, near Union Square Park, where that master of meathead cuisine, Ryan Skeen, has recently taken over the kitchen. Skeen’s elegant little beef bomb is made with bavette, beef cheeks, and pork fatback, and adorned with a slab of melting Cheddar.
But the blue ribbon for the best burger in town goes to Joey Campanaro’s perpetually bustling flagship establishment in the West Village, The Little Owl... [I]t features all the elements of the new deluxe burger revolution, including a blend of brisket and short ribs from the gourmet-beef suppliers Pat La Frieda...
While we're at it, the premise of the "Where to Eat 2009" issue is supposed to be "Simpler Pleasures - Chefs all over town are replacing foie gras and truffles with comfort food, fresh local ingredients, and bargains." So how in the world can you justify writing up a $22 burger in the same issue? Is there any universe where a quarter-hundo burger is a bargain?