The British Are Not Happy About the Rising Popularity of Cupcakes [backlash]
The cupcake backlash continues! Zoe Williams, in a piece for The Guardian, calls cupcakes "the favourite greedy treat of the me-generation":
There can be nothing parsimonious or modest about these things. British fairycake sizing is totally outclassed by the American equivalent. The name, with its doll-party daintiness, is outclassed too. But, more to the point, our fairycake is just too small. Modern standard sizing, such as those used in all decent recipes, is given for the American muffin. They are enormous; I mean, I call it the one-handed snack item, but you need pretty big hands and a huge appetite.
And that watery icing that might have tasted a bit like lemon is totally yesterday. Now you need two inches of buttercream. It has to be pink, or green, or baby blue. It has to be piped. It has to reach yearningly skywards like the mackerel heads poking out of a stargazy pie. Only it must be delicious-looking. The modern cupcake looks like a child's dream, a death-row tea. To bowdlerise the M&S advert, it is not just cake, it is me-cake, 21st-century-cake, way-of-life-cake. No, you have to hum the Groove Armada background music.