Jay Rayner Tears Into Marco Pierre White's Latest Restaurant
Jay Rayner, one of the judges on the upcoming Top Chef: Masters and The Observer's restaurant critic, writes a scathing review of Marco Pierre White's latest London restaurant, Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill:
The menu has a chummy handwritten script, but that is the only chummy thing about it, for almost everything we ate was awful in that "someone must be punished" sort of way. We are deep into the glorious asparagus season now, so there was no excuse for the tasteless, woody, undercooked examples with a dull hollandaise sauce served here for £9.50. There is no excuse at any time of year for a kipper and whisky pâté (yes, I know; it sounds horrid. That's why I ordered it). It was served brutally fridge-cold, had the texture of chilled butter, and tasted of salt and smoke and little else.
That's just Rayner getting started.